html wysiwyg mode?

[ivowel]

dear emacs-experts---is there an easy way to WYSIWYG edit clean html with 
emacs?  I don't mean fancy css.  I just mean simple tags---like underline, 
paragraphs, headers, lists, etc.  I like being able to edit html tags, as 
standard emacs html mode does, but I would also like hitting a key and editing 
in HTML itself (esp if I can see a menu at the top that gives me the choices).  
toggle forth and back.

Qemacs seems to advertise its html mode.  Ironically, pdf files open in WYSIWYG 
mode, but html files don't, given that html is closer to text than pdf.

pointers appreciated.

/iaw